Leh-Ladakh Trip Day 10 & 11

Leh is a wonderful city. It is spacious with a small population. The roads are clean and well maintained. One can have a relaxed and happy holiday here. There are some nice shopping centers available as well as good sight seeing activities in and around Leh. The weather is terrific during the summer.

We finished our breakfast and were ready to go around by 9 a.m.. When we went out, we realized that the locals begin their day only around 10-10.30 a.m. We walked around and went to the shopping area. As most shops were closed, the place looked deserted with not many people around. After a while, the shops opened and the ladies in our group had a good time buying a lot of textiles like sarees, scarfs, dress materials etc. The shopping went on for about couple of hours. In the afternoon, we found a lovely vegetarian restaurant that had opened recently. It was called the Nathus located on the first floor of Himalayan Complex. The food here was excellent although the service was a bit slow.

After a nice lunch, we went back to our hotel for an afternoon siesta. In the evening, a few of us went back to the market to pick up some articles which were missed out during the morning shopping spree. We also used this time to explore the area thoroughly. It was really beautiful and made us want to come back in the future.

After that, it was back to the hotel for our dinner and packing for the next days trip back home.

On the last day of our trip, our three drivers came back to the hotel to pick us and drop us to the airport. We left the hotel after our breakfast. The airport was a short 15-minute drive away. We said our goodbyes and thanks to the drivers. We also tipped them for their services and promised to reach out if we returned to Leh. Parting is always a difficult process and so we kept it short.

At the airport, we discovered that our baggage were having excess weight. So, we had to remove some stuff and transfer them to our hand luggage. After that, it was a smooth uneventful flight back and return to home in the hot summer of Mumbai.  

Thus ended our long & lovely holiday at Leh-Ladakh.

Leh-Ladhak Trip Day 8 & 9

It was a lovely sunny morning on day 8 that we woke up to. After morning ablutions and prayers, we had our breakfast and got set to leave The Creek at Nubra valley. This was one of the best properties we stayed in with almost everything including the weather being ideal.

We packed our stuff and loaded them on our cars and left for our next destination which Pangong lake. The route was scenic as always – rugged barren brown mountains alongside which the river Shayok was flowing. We were informed that we should be prepared for the cold weather at our destination.

Pangong lake became famous after a movie called “Three idiots” had a couple of scenes from this location. It is a salt water lake at a height of approx.. 14500 feet above sea level. The lake itself is huge which is 134 kms long and is divided into five sub lakes. Approx. 50% of the lake is in Tibet, China and 40% is in Ladakh. Balance 10% is disputed and lies between the two countries. The lake has absolutely no life as no vegetation grows at that height and hence, water creatures also cannot survive here. The place is under the control of the army and movements are restricted. No fresh water is available locally here. No permanent structures are allowed to be constructed here.

Our first view of the lake was mesmerizing. The lake has several different shades of colour to it. At places, it looks dark blue, at places, it is light blue and at other places it has an emerald, green colour. We stopped at a height and took some snaps from there. Later we drove down to the wooden rooms which were our night halt. The rooms were compact and decently furnished. However, as the night progressed, we discovered gap between the door and the walls which led to cold air coming in.

Immediately after reaching, we decided to head towards the lake which was a few hundred meters from our rooms. When we reached the lake there was a crowd of people enjoying the scenery and taking pics. There were some locals who had put up props from the movie 3 idiots and people were paying some money to use the props for pictures.

Within 15-20 minutes, we felt uncomfortable with the ice cold winds that was blowing quite fast due to the open area. So, we decided to head back to our rooms. Once there, it became so cold that few of our group members couldn’t stand it and went straight to bed. That too was not warm enough and we were wondering how we are going to survive the night here.

After some time, few of us went to a nearby room which was the restaurant and had a light dinner comprising of soup and some roti sabzi. After that we felt it is best to sleep it off. However, we soon discovered that the cold air coming form the gap between the door and the wall was unbearable. Also, the condition of a couple of our members (Jayashree & Lalitha) took a turn to the worse with vomiting, loose motions, shivering, breathlessness etc. On top of it, there was a power cut which lasted a long time. Soon, the water supply also stopped due to shortage.

We don’t know how we spent the night. Looked like it was never ending. As soon as it was morning, we decided to leave the place and get down to lower area. So, without having bath or doing any prayers, we had a light breakfast – some coffee & toast and left the place. Yes, Pangong is beautiful but I would not recommend that people plan to stay in that place simply because of the lack of infrastructure and the hostile climate.

On the way to Pangong and on the way back, we saw a strange animal which looks like a half rabbit and half squirrel. It is called Marmot. They are herbivores which hibernate during winter. During spring & summer, they are busy eating to make up for lost time as well as store fat for the harsh winter ahead. They are very friendly and come close to humans seeking food. We were warned not to feed them as it might prove harmful to their delicate digestive system. We were also told that some humans catch these innocent creatures and slaughter them for their meat which is seriously affecting their population.

After we drove for a couple of hours, our team slowly came back to their spirits. The drive was back to Leh through the Chang La pass. This is also at a great height – nearly 18000 feet above sea level. We didn’t stop here for long but got slightly delayed due to the heavy army convoys. Some of us did get down to get some pics. After that, we drove on and reached Leh by afternoon. The drive was long and our team was weary from the previous night.

At Leh, we were put up at a hotel called the Lassermo which was in the heart of the city – about 4/5 kms from the airport. The hotel was standard 4 star type hotel with very comfortable rooms & bathrooms. We had a good shower before proceeding for a late lunch. In the evening, we went for a stroll around the market area to do some shopping and came back early as the next day was completely free for us

Leh-Ladhak Trip Day 7

We woke up to a cold but sunny morning and quickly got ready for a hearty breakfast at our hotel. 

The breakfast was superb. The kitchen staff took care to cater to our specific requirements and the fare was simple yet tasty and healthy. After this, we got into our vehicles to a long drive to Turtuk village – which is the last village bordering Pakistan. This village was on the Pakistan side till 1971 when after the war, it was recaptured by the Indian army. Unfortunately, many of the villagers were separated from their near & dear ones in the process. This area is now under the control of the Ladakh Scouts.

The drive was beautiful along the riverbanks for most of the time. We had to pass through a narrow steel bridge which allowed only one vehicle to pass at a time. After a long 4 hour drive, through spectacular mountain ranges & villages, we reached Turtuk village. The was quite a crowd here – all eager to get view the Pakistan side through binoculars (available at a nominal rent) and get themselves photographed at the border. The villagers had put up several stalls here to sell locally made stuff as well as fruits. There was even a stall to dress as locals and get photographed for a small price.

We then went to the village after lunch at a pure vegetarian restaurant called Khan Hotel. It seems that many of the villagers have realized that there is a demand for pure vegetarian and vegan food from tourists and they have adapted to cater to that.

The village was beautiful and quaint. We had a good walk through the gullies having small houses and tiny farms. We did small talk with the friendly locals who said that they have seen more prosperity after becoming part of India. The do miss their relatives with whom they are unable to have much contact. Their livelihood is mainly made from farming, providing porters and mules to the army and tourists inflow. They have set up small museums to showcase their lifestyle and have small shops selling local produce as well as artefacts.

We took some pictures of ourselves here. Some locals were more than happy to get themselves photographed with us while a few ladies objected even though they were not being clicked. Locals were generally very amiable as tourists are important part of their economy. After some time, the weather changed, and it started raining. So, we decided to return to Nubra.

The drive back was through a slight drizzle for part of the way. When we reached our hotel, it was evening. We took some rest before having dinner and retiring for the night.

Leh-Ladakh trip Day 6

The property at Uley where we stayed was fabulous. The name of the property is Uley Ethnic Resort. It has a total of about 20 cottages set amidst an apple and apricot orchard. It is like a five-star property without a swimming pool. The property overlooks the Sindhu River flowing by about 25 meters below. The cottages are compact with a room and a bathroom which are well furnished. They have a separate recreation room and a dining room. The dinner was served very elegantly to us by about 3 servers fussing around us and pampering our every request. It started with soups, 2 different starters, and a full 7 course dinner complete with salads, main course, assortment of breads etc. and finished with a lovely, sweet dish.

The night became very cold here and we had to use couple of hot water bags inside the blanket to keep us warm. One couple found earthworms in their bed – perhaps they came to keep themselves warm!! The next morning, we discovered that hot water is not available on the tap, and one must order for it. We got them in buckets to have our bath.

Ramesh & Lakshmi had decided to terminate the trip due to her health issues. And although she felt much comfortable here at this location, they had to leave early morning to Leh as the new tickets were already booked. We had a leisurely breakfast at the hotel. Two of us ventured down the hillside to get to the river. It was a short but difficult trek as there was no clear pathway. We took some pics at the riverside before heading back up.

At about 10.30 a.m., we left for Leh in two vehicles. The other vehicle had gone ahead to the airport in the morning with Ramesh & Lakshmi. We met the other vehicle at Leh and from this time onwards we had 3 vehicles for 8 passengers. Quite a luxury indeed.

Our destination was Nubra Valley for which we had to pass through the 2^nd highest motorable road in the world – the Khardungla Pass (KP). We were excited to see this point as it is a famous spot for all tourists. The drive to KP from Leh was completed in about two and a half hours. As we neared it we could see snow all around us. Entire peaks, passes and valleys were covered with snow. It was a fabulous sight indeed. We got down on the way to play around in the snow and take pictures.

At KP, which is at a height of nearly 17600 feet above sea level, the oxygen level is very low and people can get affected by staying there for too long without proper acclimatization. Hence, we stayed for a max of only 15 minutes. The way down from there took more time due to traffic caused by a convoy of army vehicles. The roads are slippery there due to melting snow and we could see few vehicles had chains tied to their tires to prevent them from skidding.

We reached Nubra valley by evening. On the way, we crossed a huge patch of sand dunes caused by the silt of the rivers as well as sand blown down from the mountains by the wind. It looked like a desert, and we could see such activities there. For e.g., rides on Bactrian camels which had 2 humps, 4-wheel jeep rides etc. When we reached our hotel, it was nearly dusk.

This was also another superb property (The Creek) with about 20 cottages spread over 3 acres of land. Each cottage was very well furnished and had all arrangements one can look forward to from a top-class hotel. We also had an open to the sky bath area which none of us used as it was too cold for us. Dinner at the hotel was preceded by some time by the open-air fireside. As it was cold, the fire was very comforting. Later we had a sumptuous yet simple dinner before retiring for the night.

Leh-Ladakh Trip Day 4 & 5

Kargil is at a height of approx. 2600 meters above sea level and hence the weather here was pleasant. Neither too cold nor warm. After a leisurely breakfast in the morning we went for a long drive to Suru valley. This meant a drive northward from our hotel along the Suru river. The land was green and a pleasure to the eyes. We passed a few small villages along the way as well as a hydro power generation station. 

There is nothing in particular to write about Suru valley except that it is a fertile land with fair amount of cultivation along the way. We could see small orchards as well as small fields. We could also see some people using small oar boats to perhaps cross the river or do some fishing. Children walking to school or playing near the roads was another sight. After driving some distance, we stopped at a place to take some pictures. After that we crossed a bridge over the Suru river and went around a village on the other side.

After spending some time thus, we returned to our hotel for lunch. In the evening we hired some local taxis to take us to the Hundarman village which is close the the LOC with Pakistan. We used the telescope there to sight our army stationed at various place on the mountains. We also saw the border where our army personnel were camping within a short distance from the Pakistani army. We also saw bunkers on both sides as well as small shrines used by the army on each side.

After spending some time here we returned to our hotel. A couple of us took a walk around Kargil town to do window shopping and get a flavour of the place. We were surprised to see people closing shops by 7 p.m. even though there was plenty of light. We went to a pure vegetarian restaurant / dhaba and were informed that they are about to close shop. We realised that people retire early here as they have to attend their evening prayers. We returned to our hotel, had dinner and also hit the bed.

One our our tour members (Lakshmi) was still feeling unwell and the hotel people kindly helped in getting a doctor to examine her and even arranged for a visit to a local hospital. The doctor made more that one visit and did not accept any payment for her services. She said you are our guest and it is our duty to take care of you. This was a very impressive gesture on their part.

The next day, Day 5, we checked out of the hotel after our breakfast and drove to Drass War Memorial. I can say that this was one of the highlights of our trip. The war memorial is maintained by the army to commemorate the bravery and the sacrifice of our soldiers during the Pakistani aggression in 1999. We went around the memorial and had goosebumps hearing the tales of valour displayed by our bravehearts. We saw the guns on display, including the famous Bofors guns, which were used to pound the enemy positions on the top the mountains. We were told that many of the mountains were reduced in height due the pounding. We also saw the Tiger Hill in the distance that was captured by a daring act of our troops.

We saw the busts of the soldiers who were awarded the highest awards for their bravery and courage. One of them was Captain Vikram Batra whose twin brother is an ex-colleague of mine. We also went inside the display hall which contained various articles captured from the enemy, the last letters of our soldiers to their family, the stories of the carious battles fought and won over the years etc. Later we also went to the place where the tombstones of some of our Martyrs are kept. We also saw an audio visual of the entire operation narrated by Amitabh Bacchan in his inimitable baritone voice. To say that this kindled a strong sense of patriotism in all of us would be an understatement. We realised the true nature of the sacrifice of our armed forces and our respect to them became stronger after this visit.

After this, we drove towards our next destination which was the Uley. We arrived late in the evening at our resort. It was very chilly at that time. We had to quickly wear our sweaters to cope with this. After some freshening up, we went for a fabulous dinner where we were treated like Royalty. The resort people took great care to cater to our varied requirement. More about the property and the locale in my next blog...

Leh-Ladhak trip Day 3

On Day 3 of our trip, we got ready by 8 a.m. with our bags all packed for the onward journey. Our last meal at the Angkasa Ladakh Resort, Leh was our breakfast. Our vehicles had come by 9 a.m. and after saying our goodbyes to the hotel staff, taking final pictures and  loading our bags into the cars, we were on our way.

Our first halt was at a Gurudwara called Pathar Sahib. Guru Nanak had come here and had converted a demonic man who used to harass the local populace by using a gentle & compassionate approach. The man tried to crush Guru Nanak with a large rocs by sliding it down from a hillock when He was meditating below. The rock became soft on touching the Guru and did not harm Him. Seeing this, the man realised that this was a great soul and sought His forgiveness. Guru Nanak instructed him to be kind and serve the people instead of harming them. The man became a gentle soul after that.

This Gurudwara is maintained by the army folks and is on the main NH1 highway. We went inside and listened to the Gurbani bhajan for some time. Then we came out and had a cup of delicious tea that was being served at that time. After some customary pics, we boarded our cars for the next leg of the journey.

Along the way, we stopped at a place which is famous as the magnetic hill. Here, at a particular spot on flat land, the vehicles automatically move forward even though the engine is switched off. It is believed that this is due to magnetic force of a hill on the opposite side. We experienced this first-hand but didn't wait much here. Further down the road, we came to the confluence / sangam of the Sindhu & Zanskar rivers. It was a beautiful spot. Almost everyone tends to stop here and enjoy the lovely scenery. We too got off our cars and took many pictures. It seems that rafting is allowed here during the months of July / August when the rivers have more water flow.

Driving down further, we came across a lovely carving of the Maitreya Buddha on a small rock along the roadside. An inscription here said that this was carved on the first century BC and that this Buddha was the successor of Gautam Buddha. Maitreya Buddha means one who shows kindness to all fellow creatures.

Along the way, we came across the beautiful Alchi Gompa monastery situated at a high altitude along the road. However, we did not go inside as we were hungry and there were no pure vegetarian hotels nearby. After driving some distance, we stopped near a roadside restaurant and ate some of the snacks that we were carrying. It was cold and the winds made it even more chilly. After a short halt, we proceeded and finally reached Kargil by evening time.

Kargil is the second largest town of Ladakh situated at a height of approx. 8000 feet above sea level. It is also the second capital of Ladakh. With a population of approx 1.7 lakhs (mainly Muslims), it is sitting on the banks of the Suru river. We checked into The Kargil hotel in the heart of the town, surrounded by residential houses on all sides. The rooms were nice here even though the location was not. We freshened up and went for a short walk around the town. It was congested and not well maintained. We came back after some time for dinner at the hotel. Dinner was good. There was a South Indian chef called Raju Nair who went out of the way to make us feel comfortable.

After dinner, it was time to hit the bed as we were exhausted and tired after a hectic day of travel and had to catch up on sleep.

Leh-Ladhak trip - Day 2

The Sun rose early on Day 2 and it was fairly bright by 6 a.m. As we were not used to the cold, we woke up leisurely and after getting ready went for breakfast at the restaurant within our hotel property. The fare was limited but very delicious. We had juice, fresh cut fruits, bread butter jam, some paratha, some Upma etc. Followed by tea / coffee / hot cocoa.

Raju, who was feeling unwell the previous day and had literally fasted & rested the whole time, was up and about having recovered. Lakshmi was still feeling down and everyone tried their best to cheer her up.

After breakfast, we went in the three cars for some sight seeing. The first was Stok Palace which was a half hour drive away. On the way, we had our first glimpse of the mighty & holy Sindhu river. The Stok palace used to be the residence of the Namgyal dynasty of Leh for many decades. It is now converted into a hotel which captures the rich heritage of Ladhak. The location was very scenic but the palace was closed for renovation. We were not allowed inside even for a quick glimpse and had to be content to walk around the compound and take pictures outside.

After this we went to the Matho Monastery which is located about 26 kms from Leh. It was an impressive structure which must have once been inhabited by thousands of monks. There were multiple places for worship and reading of scriptures. However, the place was literally deserted when we arrived. We went around the monastery, took pictures, read the inscriptions etc. before coming back to our vehicles to head for our next destination.

About 30 minutes drive away was the Leh Palace which is undoubtedly one of the most wonderful heritage structures of Leh. Built over 3 years using local materials in the 1600s by Sengge Namgyal, it is a 9 storeyed structure with hundreds of rooms & wide balconies. Some of our team members decided to stay put near the entrance daunted by the number of floors to climb. Some of us went up and had the fortune of seeing the exhibition as well as the audio visual describing the history of the palace. Many of the rooms are locked and out of bounds for visitors due to security & safety reasons. The Palace is being restored to its original glory to showcase this marvel the World.

After this visit, we decided to go back to our hotel for some lunch and rest. The drivers were given the day off after dropping us back. After a simple yet sumptuous lunch, we took some rest. This was essential to get fully acclimatized. In the evening, we played some cards inside our rooms. Later we had an early dinner before retiring for the night.

Thus ended Day 2 of out stay at Leh.

Leh-Ladhak trip Day 1

Five couples from our yatra group decided to go to Leh-Ladhak in May of 2023 and this blog captures the day 1 of the trip.

We left early morning to catch out 7.20 a.m. direct flight to Leh. In the last minute rush, Raju has left behind his sling bag containing his medicine and we had to turn back to retrieve it. Fortunately due to empty roads at that hour, we still reached well on time for our check in.

Flight took off on time and the 2.20 minutes flight was smooth. We had some Theplas carried by Raju and hot tea on the flight. As we neared Leh, we could see beautiful snow capped mountains welcoming us. The Leh Airport is run by defence personnel and photography is strictly prohibited here. We did manage to get a group picture inside the baggage hold area as well as outside the airport.

We were received by Mr. Wangyal, from our tour operator's team, who welcomed us with traditional & colourful Ladhaki neck scarfs. It is supposed to bring good luck to the visitors.

The temperature at Leh when we landed at 9.45 a.m. was 9°C which was quite a change from the 27°C at Mumbai when we departed at 7.20 a.m. We had to wear one layer of warm clothing at least to cope with this. Luckily it was sunny and bright bringing us some cheer in the cold weather.

Leh is situated at an altitude of nearly 12000 feet above sea level. It is one of the two capitals of the state of Ladhak. The other being Kargil which was part of our itinerary later during the trip. Leh has a population of roughly 3 lakhs which comprises of 45% Muslims, 40% Buddhists and the rest are from various religions.

We got into 3 Innovas and were driven to our hotel - Angkasa Ladhakh Resort. It was a short drive of about 25 minutes from the airport. The resort is located in the area of the model village Saboo. The property is well furnished and modern and yet has an old world charm in the form of cottages. It has a total of only 16 rooms and is only a year old.

We were received by the owner Mr. Dorge who also welcomed us with traditional Ladhaki good luck pure white neck scarves. He also gave us some advice on dos & don'ts for the first couple of days to help us acclimatize well.

After a cup of coffee at the reception, we went to our respective rooms and after some time assembled in a room to chat & decide on the plans for the day. Unfortunately, couple of our members faced health problems (nausea, breathlessness, headache etc.). So, we decided to take it easy on Day 1. We had a light lunch of Dal Kichadi, mix vegetables, plain rice, dahi and roast papads.

After that we spent some time chatting and in the evening four of us decided to go to the market area to look it up while the rest remained at the property to rest.

The market was nice. No vehicles allowed. Very few people in the streets as compared to the mass rush at Mumbai. We did quite a bit of window shopping in various shops selling local & Kashmiri artefacts. We were accompanied by Mr. Wangyal who acted like a local guide and answered all our questions while giving his own perspective of things. We also visited a monastery near the market where our guide gave us good insights into the Buddhist way of worship. Later, we had tea at a local nukkad shop before returning to our hotel.

In the night we had dinner at the restaurant in the hotel where the owner was celebrating his 2 year old son's birthday. We also were treated to the birthday cake. Dinner was skipped by the two group members (Raju & Lakshmi) who were resting.

After dinner we retired early as all of us were tired and wanted to catch up on our sleep. It was the end of a hectic and tiring first day of our Leh-Ladhak trip.

Jammu - Himachal Yatra (Part 10 of 10)

The last day of the yatra (31st May, 2022) started like all other days. Before I describe the day, let me give you a brief description of the hotel where we were staying - Anand at the Sutlej. It is one of the premium properties in Sri Anandpur Sahib. We got to know about this property from various hotel booking sites and were impressed by its ratings of 4.5 out of 5. The pricing of the property is also premium which we were OK with as it was the last leg of a strenuous and long yatra. 

The property is located a few kilometers away from the main Gurudwara just besides the river Sutlej (or one of its streams). All residences in the property are in form of cottages - either one bedroom or two bedroom plus a hall. The rooms are well furnished but has a rustic feel when it comes to the walls, flooring, ceiling etc. The furniture also are not the modern plush variety but rather like vintage stuff. The food served was decent but service was slow and quantity was a challenge - a few times they went out of stock of an items which everyone liked.

The sound of birds was always there and we could see / hear a variety of birds. The early mornings were especially beautiful as it was cool and the silence interrupted by the call of the birds was pleasing. Evenings were not as good as there were many mosquitoes and other insects to disturb us besides the heat. The flowering plants, the fruit bearing trees and the other vegetation of the farms were nice to behold. Overall, this place is worth a visit, although slightly expensive, especially in the winter or rains.

On the last day of the yatra, we had a good breakfast as always, packed (rather cramped) our luggage into our vehicles and began our ride towards Chandigarh. We were forced to keep all 20+ pieces of luggage inside the vehicles due to some local rules as explained by our drivers. We first drove towards Mansa Devi temple at Panchkula. The drive was long and at times through uneven roads. We arrived in the peak of the hot afternoon at this temple. Constructed by Maharaja Gopal Singh about 200 years ago, the complex spreads over an area of about 100 acres. It is considered and important shrine for worshipping Devi in Shakti form. A hundred meters away is another attractive temple called the Patiala temple.

We had to climb up one storey to reach the main temple. As the crowd was less at that time, we had a comfortable and easy darshan. We also visited a small Shiva temple in the premises and offered water to the Lingam. Some of us also visited the Patiala temple. As it was getting very hot, we rushed back to the vehicles. Some of us had sugarcane juice near the parking area and left immediately for the airport.

Arriving at the airport a little early, we checked in and had something to eat at the lounge there. Our flight was direct to Mumbai and arrived before time, much to our delight. 

Thus ended one of our longest, most hectic & tiring but satisfying yatra which was focussed on visiting Devi temples and Shakti Peethams. Hope you enjoyed the virtual journey and feel free to comment with your thoughts as well as questions, if any.

See you here again after the next yatra.