Beautiful Bhutan - Part 6

Stopped on the way 

Waking up leisurely and after packing our bags, we went for breakfast at the restaurant attached to the hotel. They were kind enough to give us some Poha and Paratha accompanied by fruits, bread toast, cornflakes etc. By 9 a.m., we left Punakha and proceeded towards Paro which was 115 kms away. We had to go all the way back to Thimphu and then take a detour towards Paro. We stopped enroute near a river and took some photos at that scenic spot.

On the way, we saw the same sights that we saw while coming to Punakha – the 108 Stupas at Dochula pass, the Sitting Buddha at Thimphu etc. It took us about 3.5 hours to reach Paro and as we approached the town, we could see the International Airport which was not very busy. We were put up at Paro Grand hotel which was beside a small river. This is a very good hotel although the rooms are compact compared to other hotels that we stayed in this trip. From our hotel, we could get a view of the flights as they took off from the airport.

View from our hotel at Paro

After resting a while, we had lunch at the restaurant in the hotel. The food was good and even here we were provided with Satvik food specially prepared for us. The cook turned out to be an Indian from Rajasthan who knew the taste of tourists from India (especially Jains who insist on food without onion & garlic). Speaking of food, the Bhutanese people are mostly non-vegetarians – they eat everything from poultry to seafood to meat. However, one interesting thing is that there are no slaughter houses in Bhutan as it goes against their philosophy of Ahimsa or non-violence. All non-veg raw stuff here is imported from other countries (mainly India). I wonder how they reconcile themselves to eat non-veg while professing to be against all kinds of violence.

View from our hotel at Paro

In the afternoon, we went to the National Museum of Bhutan which is actually located inside a refurbished old watch tower. This old watch tower was once used to keep a watch over the Rinpung Dzong (monastery) above which it is built. Now converted into a museum, this houses a large number of artifacts dating back to over 1500 years. It captures the history, culture, costumes etc. of Bhutan in a very nice way. One can also read about the royal family and the important monks of Bhutan. There is a nominal entry fee to visit this museum to take care of the expenses of maintaining the place. We spent a good hour here exploring the various rooms which are at different levels.

Restaurant in hotel

After this we visited the marketplace where we did some window shopping. The place was good to spend some time walking around. More than 50 well maintained shops are here but most of them sell the same kinds of articles. There are also some nice restaurants here including pure veg places. We discovered a shop which was located slightly away from the market but which seemed to be a big hit with tourists. Here we went and purchased some items to be given as gifts to our friends.

Then we returned to our hotel for dinner after completing evening prayers. Dinner was as excellent as the lunch was. We decided to sleep early as the next day was going to be quite eventful with a long trek in the morning. More about it in my next blog.

Beautiful Bhutan - Part 5

At Dochu La Pass

On Day 4 of our trip, after our morning ablutions, as it was Amavasya, I had an extra activity of offering Tarpanam for my forefathers which I did in the hotel room itself. Then we went down to the restaurant for another special satvik breakfast. After this, we checked out of the hotel and proceeded towards Punakha which was at a distance of about 75 kms.

The drive was long and the sights along the way were refreshingly green. The weather was clear and the air was crisp and cool. Along the way, we halted for a while at a beautiful spot in the Dochu La pass which is at a height of about 3100 meters above sea level. This is where the Bhutan government has built 108 stupas to commemorate the victory of the Bhutanese army in a battle over the Assamese rebels who had tried to occupy Bhutan. Besides this, there is also a monastery called the Druk Wangyal Lhakhang. The place is very nice and hundreds of tourist cars were parked here to enjoy the scenery as well as the weather. We too halted here for a while, took some pictures and walked around absorbing the atmosphere which was peaceful and quiet. We thoroughly enjoyed the panoramic view of the Himalayas from here although some clouds did come to play spoilsport.

View from our room

After this, we proceeded to Punakha which is at a lower altitude (about 1200 meters above sea level). We reached Punakha by afternoon with a total drive time of about 2 hours. Our hotel (called Hotel River Valley) was at a scenic spot, slightly away from the town and overlooking the Sankosh river that flows here. The hotel was clean, and the rooms were large. We rested for some time in the room and ate some Theplas that we had carried from Mumbai.

Punakha Dzong

In the early afternoon, we drove down to the Punakha Dzong, a beautiful fortress and monastery. This is the administrative centre of the Punakha district and is the second oldest and second largest Dzongs in Bhutan. Before Thimphu became the capital of Bhutan, this was the seat of the government of Bhutan. It houses the sacred relics of the southern Drukpa lineage of the kagyu school of Tibetan Buddhism as well as the sacred remains of Ngawang Namgyal (the monk credited with unifying Bhutan and with creating a unique Bhutanese cultural identity different from the Tibetan culture). This place is a must visit for all tourists coming to Bhutan as it is beautiful, well preserved and awe-inspiring.We spent a little over an hour here taking pictures and visiting all the places inside the monastery. We saw the traditional prayers offered by the monks who are residents here as well as the place where they stay. In Bhutan religion and governance are closely interlinked and this provides for a very Dharmic type of government. We could see the government administrative office co-located with the places of worship.

After this, we visited the suspension bridge which is a pedestrian hanging bridge over the Po Chhu river. There are two rivers called the Po Chhu (father) and Mo Chhu (mother) which have a confluence at Punakha. After this, the river is called Sankosh. The suspension bridge is made of steel cables and hangs about 30 meters above the river. The length of the bridge is about 160 meters while the breadth is 1.2 meters. We had to walk about 15 minutes from the Punakha Dzong to reach the bridge. It was windy here as the whole area is open. As we walked over to the other side, we could feel the sway of the bridge. It was slightly scary as only a couple of months earlier a similar suspension bridge had collapsed in Gujarat killing many people. This Bhutanese bridge is, of course, built very sturdy and safe. On the other side of the bridge is a village which has a few shops to cater to the tourists. One can buy some snacks or tea and even some provisions like the local rice.

During our trip, we had made friends with another couple from Bengaluru, whose trip schedule was the same as ours.  As they had booked through another travel agency, the hotels were different. So, we kept meeting them every day at the tourist spots and it was great to have their company. They were with us at the suspension bridge walk also.

After this, we drove back to our hotel and after evening prayers, we had an early dinner. Again we were provided with Satvik and fresh dinner which was very appetising and filling. After dinner, we went to sleep in our room overlooking the river. The weather being good, fans were sufficient to keep us comfortable.

Thus ended Day 4 of our trip to Bhutan.

Beautiful Bhutan - Part 4

Durga temple, Thimphu

On Day 3 of our trip, we woke up a bit late and after finishing our morning prayers etc., we went to the restaurant and had a leisurely breakfast. Ariya hotel is good and the breakfast they served was sumptuous. We met an Indian couple from Muscat who were there for a holiday and, while talking and exchanging notes, we discovered that we had mutual friends back in India.

After breakfast, our first port of halt was a Durga temple constructed by the King to cater to the Hindu citizens and visitors. It was a short drive away from our hotel and situated on the top of a hillock. It was very chilly when we arrived with very few visitors at that time of the day. We went inside, offered our prayers and then went around the temple complex. It was neat & well-kept with a Yagashala (place to conduct havans / yagnas) within the premises. After taking the customary pictures, we proceeded to the famous tourist spot of the Sitting Buddha.

The Great Buddha Dordenma is a huge golden statue of the sitting Buddha constructed to commemorate the 60^th Anniversary of the 4^th King of Bhutan in the year 2015. Situated on the top of a hill, it is about 175 feet tall and has within its premises more than a lakh of miniature Buddhas. Earlier they used to charge a ticket for entry to recover the costs of the construction but subsequently, it was waived to encourage more visitors & tourists. It is a beautiful structure and offers a glimpse into the country’s culture and religion. Inside the premises, one can read about various monks who have installed and nurtured Buddhism in Bhutan. One can also sit inside and do some meditation. Outside, one has plenty of stunning photo opportunities. The bright colours of the premises and the exteriors makes for a great setting to take pictures. The sitting Buddha can be seen from long distances and one feels blessed and classful when viewing it from afar.

We had driven to the entry gate situated on the top of the hill. On the way back, we decided to walk down the steps (approx. 290 steps) to the road below where our driver got the car for us to proceed to the next halt.

The guide recommended that we visit a place called ‘Simply Bhutan’ which he insisted was a must visit place. We went there and found that the entry tickets were priced steeply at Rs. 1000 per person. We still went in as we were told that we will get the experience of life in Bhutan here. The tour inside this small place starts with a drink of rice wine manufactured locally. We learnt that it is very common to drink this in Bhutan and is offered to all guests and used during festivals and family gatherings. We also learnt that one must offer the drink to one’s friends / loved ones who are not present. This is done by dipping our finger into the drink and sprinkling the drink in the air by twitching the wet fingers.

After this, we went into different rooms where every aspect of Bhutanese history and life was displayed – the monarchy, the weapons used in war, implements used in agriculture, cooking etc. One gets an opportunity to see traditional Bhutanese singing and dancing – visitors are also encouraged to dance along. We were also treated with local tea, snacks etc. One can visit souvenir stalls, wear traditional dress and take pictures or even try a hand at archery (one of the national pastimes & sports of Bhutan). Overall, we spent about an hour here and when we came out we had gathered some idea about the life in Bhutan. In terms of value for money, I would not recommend Simply Bhutan as the information and experience was short of our expectations.

After this we went to the Royal Takin Preserve (national preserve of Takin - the national animal of Bhutan). This is a strange animal which has the head of a goat and the body of a cow. A Bhutanese belief is that many hundred years ago, a Tibetan monk miraculously grafted the head of a goat on a cow’s body and brought it to life with a snap of his fingers. He did this on a request of locals to perform a miracle in front of them.  It thus became a revered animal which is found mainly only in Bhutan. It is generally lazy with restricted movements. This preserve was once meant to be a mini zoo but later converted into a preserve for this animal. There is an entry fee of Rs. 250 to enter this preserve. One must walk around the place on specially constructed walkways where one can observe the animals in the open without the risk of physically going near them. After spending about 45 minutes here, we decided to go for lunch.

After searching on google for a vegetarian restaurant, we located one where Indian meals are available. We drove to the place which was virtually deserted. As we were not sure about the quality we asked for some safe items like chappati and dal and potato bhaji. The food was tolerable. Here too we noticed that although we were eating were meagrely, the restaurant gave a full meal to our driver and guide duo free of charge. Only when we insisted they accepted money for the meal of the duo. The waitress who served us knew Hindi and we had an interesting conversatio9n with her to know about her background and aspirations etc. She informed us that she has not had much education but is keen to get one and build a career in IT / allied field. It is a pity that education facilities are limited in Bhutan as are employment opportunities. Hopefully, the government will take steps to fill this soon.

Thimphu contains some of the most important political buildings in Bhutan. Post lunch, we went around in the car and saw some of these from outside. We also witnessed at couple of places, people enjoying their holiday playing their favourite sports - Khuru (a type of large darts) and Archery. In both the games, there are two teams (of 8-12 people in each team) which compete with each other in trying to hit the target most number of times. Each player has a certain number of chances to have a go at the target. The distance for the target is quite high (about 50 meters for Khuru and about 150 meters for Archery) and hitting the target is not easy. Once a target is hit, the team holds a ceremonial dance accompanied by singing. The atmosphere is very friendly and competition is not fierce. Overall very enjoyable to watch.

Khuru game in progress

 After this, we went to the Clock Tower Square. We spent an hour or so walking around and doing window shopping. This is a beautiful place for spending time leisurely. It is wide and open and very pedestrian friendly. There is also a large square near the clock where one can hold public meetings. Many small restaurants dot the area as also shops selling everything one needs for day to day life.

Then we returned to our hotel to spend the evening relaxing. We had an early dinner in the hotel – special satvik food served for us as per our request placed earlier. After dinner, we returned to our room to end Day 3 on a happy note.

Beautiful Bhutan - Part 3

Delicious green banana

On the second day of our trip, we finished our morning ablutions and had breakfast at the restaurant attached to the hotel. Breakfast was quite delicious and the chef took great care to serve us special freshly prepared Satvik (no onion or garlic) vegetarian dish (Poha). One noticeable thing was the bananas that were kept in the buffet – there had green skin and looked unripe for we are used to artificially ripened yellow skins in India. The bananas in Bhutan were organic and tasted delicious. The rest of the breakfast was standard – toast, butter, jam, tea / coffee etc.

With our car outside hotel

After breakfast, we checked out of the hotel and came down to the lobby where we met our guide. A young guy called Pema (which means Lotus). In Bhutan, the rule is no tourist can go around unless accompanied by a licenced guide. This rule is to ensure that visitors know and follow the rules and don’t get into any trouble or mischief which sometimes can happen with youngsters. Having a guide is also useful to get clarifications on just about anything – be it places of interest, history, culture etc. Guides need to get a local licence to operate as a guide. As many qualified guides have migrated for better opportunities, there are shortages during peak season and hence very expensive to hire one. For us the cost was about Rs. 1500 per day for the guide but it can go up to Rs. 5000 per day during peak season.

Bhutan is 30 minutes ahead of India time. So, we had to adjust our watches. We got a lovely Creta vehicle with a driver named Tashi (which means Good Fortune). We first went to the immigration office. As per Bhutanese rules, one does not need a Visa / permit to visit the border town. For going inside Bhutan, one needs to take a permit costing Rs. 1200/- per day per person. The process of getting the permit prepared took almost an hour due to the crowd. After this, we proceeded in our vehicle inside Bhutan.

At Dharma Kaya Stupas

Within a short time, we left the town and were going uphill. The weather kept improving with cool breeze blowing. The scenery was also lovely with lush green forests in the mountainous terrain. We soon reached the first check point where polite policemen checked our permit & passports and made a record in their register about our entry into Bhutan. After that, we proceeded directly towards the capital city of Thimphu which was about 150 kms away.

Dharma Kaya Stupas 

Along the way, we stopped at a lovely site with multiple Stupas. These are the eight Dharma Kaya Stupas each of which represents the important events in the life and works of Buddha Shakyamuni. They represent the Buddha’s body, speech & mind. This was near the town of Gedu – well known for its educational institutes where youth from all over Bhutan come and stay to complete various courses. We took some pictures near the Stupas and proceeded further. After some time, we stopped for lunch at a restaurant which had a lovely view of a dam. All restaurants in Bhutan provide free food to the guides & drivers – irrespective of whether the tourists eat there or not. They take good care of their people, and it is something very nice to observe.

Our room at Hotel Ariya

We reached Thimphu by evening. It is a fairly large city with a population of about 1.5 Lakh people. It is at an elevation of 2400 meters above sea level which made it cool and very pleasant. The temperature hovered around 13-14 Celsius. Our hotel was called Ariya and it was excellent. The rooms were very spacious and well furnished. After, resting for some time and finishing our evening prayers etc., we went out for some shopping. It was around 7 p.m. when we left the hotel but it was quite dark at that time with a hint of rain. The wind chill factor made it very cold. Most of the shops were closed but we found a good shop where we purchased some stuff and got a very good price too. Bhutanese currency is Ngultrum which has the same value as the Indian rupee. All shops in Bhutan accept Indian currency. Hence, there is no need to carry USD. However, cards are not accepted in most places.

After that, we came back to the hotel and had dinner. Here too, we were served special freshly made Satvik food which was very nice. The preparations were all Indian type as most of the tourists who come here are Indians and the cooks, hotel staff etc. all know our culture, habits and language. After dinner we wen to our room, checked our messages / mails etc. and then hit the snooze button to end Day 2 of our trip.

Beautiful Bhutan - Part 2

Inside Bhutan after crossing gate

There are three ways of entering Bhutan from India. One is to fly directly to Paro which is the international airport. The other two ways are by road. One is to drive down from Guwahati, Assam. The other is to drive down from Bagdogra, West Bengal. The Guwahati route takes about 12 hours and the Bagdogra route takes about 5 hours. We chose to take the Bagdogra route as direct flight to Paro was expensive.

The peak tourist season in Bhutan coincides with summer vacation in India which is roughly from mid-April till early June.  During this time, it gets very crowded which makes everything expensive – whether it is hotels, cars or guides. So, it is advisable to go a bit early or after monsoon which is in September / October.

Day 1 of our tour was a direct flight to Bagdogra from Mumbai. It was a direct flight which took us about 2.5 hours. After landing at Bagdogra airport, we were picked up by a taxi (prearranged through a travel agent). This was a Swift Dezire AC car which was comfortable, and the roads too were excellent. On the way, we stopped at a roadside restaurant for tea. The place looked unclean, but the tea was excellent. 

From here, we drove directly to a border town called Jaigaon. Along the way, we saw miles & miles of tea estates almost as if it was a hill station. However, we came to know that although it was not at a high altitude, the weather & ground conditions were ideal to grow tea. So, it was a refreshing view for most of the second leg of our journey. Jaigaon is adjacent to the Bhutanese town called Phutensholing (pronounced as Phinsholing). On arrival, we were picked up by the travel agent’s guy and had to walk across the border gate to the Bhutan side while our driver drove over along with our baggage to the hotel. The hotel was less than 100 meters from the gate. This is some strange process which they follow, and I couldn’t understand the logic behind it.

Our room at Ga-Me-Ga

We were put up at a hotel called Ga-Me-Ga which was decent. The rooms were clean, AC worked well, and service was decent. The view from the hotel was not much to talk about. As it was already evening when we reached, we had a quick shower, finished evening prayers and then went for a walk around the hotel. As it was dark, most shops had already closed for the day. We saw a small park adjoining a Buddhist temple nearby where some locals as well as tourists were lazing around. We also found, to our delight, a pure veg restaurant serving South India dishes. We went in and had some milk – no dinner as it was Ekadashi.

After that we came back to our room and went to bed early as we were tired with all the travel done during the day. Thus ended Day 1 of our Bhutan trip.

Beautiful Bhutan - Part 1

Punakha Dzong (Palace of Bliss)

 It has been some time since my wife & I visited the beautiful country of Bhutan, and I thought I will write a short blog to capture our experiences for the benefit of people who plan to visit.

At the outset let me heartily recommend a visit to this lovely country which is India’s neighbour on the Northern side, and which has Gross National Happiness (GNH) as its goal rather than GDP. It has a benevolent Monarchy and its young King, HM Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, has taken a lot of efforts to developing the country and, at the same time, maintain its culture & values. One example of his love for his subjects is that during Covid lockdown, when tourism the mainstay of the nation was not there, he provided free monthly payouts and rations from his pocket (not from Government Treasury).

The first thing that strikes us when we enter the country is its cleanliness – no one can be seen littering or spitting or urinating or defecating or otherwise spoiling the environment. Very few people smoke here while drinking is common and, although a few also chew betel leaves, none spits out the contents. The other noticeable thing is that there is almost zero noise pollution – during our entire stay of a week, we must have heard only a handful of car honks.

People are patient and pleasant. One incident which I recall was we had gone to a restaurant to have our lunch and when we returned, we found a car parked behind ours making it difficult for us to move. Our driver and guide were not perturbed and waited for the other guy to come at his time. When he came, I was surprised to see that there was no exchange of harsh words. In fact, they exchanged pleasantries, and both apologised to each other for the trouble caused. Unthinkable to ever experience that in India or, for that matter, in any other country.

With Pema Wang, our Guide

People are also courteous to each other. Give respect and exchange greetings as a natural habit. One can sense a feel of comraderies among all its citizens which a very unique and interesting. There are very few opportunities for careers / jobs within the country and income levels are rather low, but people don’t seem to be too depressed or unhappy about it. Few of them have migrated to US / Europe / Australia in search of livelihood but most of them end up doing menial jobs there as they are not highly educated.

Bhutan’s size is a about 38K square Kilometers which roughly the same size of Kerala in India. Most of the country’s natural beauty has been maintained with a strong sense of protecting the environment even at the cost of development which is in line with the GNH philosophy. There are only 3 main urban areas in Bhutan and only one international airport at Paro. The rest of the country is beautiful mountains, valleys, rivers, forests etc. Perfect getaway for tourists who prefer natural beauty.

Indian tourists please note that Indian SIM card does not work here. If you prefer to stay connected all the time, you may need to purchase a Bhutanese SIM card (easily available for short periods) and subscribe for data plans which are slightly pricey. All hotels have free Wifi which are fairly good and takes care of file downloads / uploads. Indian currency notes of all denominations are welcome in Bhutan and one need not carry dollars.

There is no requirement for VISA for Indians to visit Bhutan. One can go there with either passport or Election Voters ID and one needs to take a permit which is described in more detail in following blogs.

Will write more about the trip in the following blogs. Keep following for more about Bhutan.

Tamil Nadu Yatra - Part 7 (concluding part)

Day 9

In the morning, we finished our ablutions and left for Pazhani (another of the 6 most important temples dedicated to Lord Muruga). The drive was smooth through well maintained highways, and we reached by around 10 a.m. The weather was pleasant – neither too hot nor cold. After breakfast at a restaurant located near the steps leading to the temple, we reached the main entry point to climb the hill. The temple, built around 2^nd & 5^th Century CE by the Cheraas, is located on the top of the Hill. One must climb 400 odd steps to reach the temple of Lord Muruga (known here as Dhandayuthapani).

Lord Dhandayuthaapani

As per Hindu mythology, this hillock was carried from Mount Kailas by Idumban (one of the devotees of Lord Muruga and a guardian of His temples) under the orders of Sage Agasthaya. Once Sage Narada visited Kailas and presented the Gynana-pazham (fruit of knowledge) to Lord Shiva who in turn announced that He will award it to whichever of His two sons who first circumambulates the whole world thrice. Lord Muruga, eager to win the prize, immediately climbed on His mount (The Peacock) and set out on the journey. His brother Lord Ganesh, who had the slow moving Mouse as his mount, introspected and decided that the whole world is within His parents (Lord Shiva and Parvati) and therefore, went around them thrice thereby winning the fruit of knowledge. Muruga, who is the presiding deity over the planet of action Mars, felt upset over this and chose to leave His home and reside in the Pazhani hilltop as a hermit and continues to live there even today. The idol of Muruga here is made out of nine herbs (known as Navapashanam) and is believed to have been consecrated by a Siddha purusha called as Sage Bogar. The idol is unique and beautiful where an emanciated Lord Muruga stands alone with a stick in His right hand, as is carried by ascetics. The idol has properties of curing most deadly of ailments if one consumes the abhishekam theertham.

Instead of climbing the steps, we decided to take the elephant route which does not have many steps. It is more of a gradual ascent. The route to the temple was scenic as we could get the glimpse of the town from the elevation. We could not take any pictures as cameras / mobile phones are forbidden to be taken up to the temple. After we reached the temple, we got special VIP ticket and, after a short wait, we were escorted directly to the sanctum. We sat there and witnessed the abhishekam of the Lord which was a very emotional moment for all of us. To see this form of the deity bereft of any alankaram is a blessing indeed and it will forever be etched in our minds.

Tiruparangundram

After darshan, we came out and I did my afternoon prayers outside the temple. After this we descended and reached down by around 1 p.m. We had some coconut water to quench our thirst as it was very warm by then. We then went to another Murugan temple in the town below. This is the Thiruaavinankudi temple which was in existence even before the temple came up on the hill. Besides Murugan, this temple also has shrines for Ganesh, Shiva, Parvati and Shaneeshwara. People generally visit this temple first before climbing the hill. After a quick darshan here, we visited a shop to look for some items to purchase as a memory of this visit. However, we did not buy anything. After reaching Madurai by afternoon, we had had lunch at a North Indian restaurant called Bhagawati Mohans Bhojanalay before proceeding back to our hotel. The food here was excellent and low priced. It was a welcome change to eat North Indian Thali after many days of eating South Indian stuff. We were quite bored of eating dosa / idli / Pongal every day..

Tiruparangundram Temple

After some rest at the hotel and finishing our evening prayers, we visited the last of the 6 important temples of Lord Muruga called Tiruparangundram. This is located within 8 kms from Madurai city itself. This is believed to be the first Houses of Lord Muruga and was built by the Pandyas dynasty in the 6^th century CE. As per Skand Purana, after Lord Muruga killed the demon known as Surapadman at Thiruchendur, He married His consort Devasena (daughter of Lord Indra) here. Lord Muruga is believed to have worshipped His father Lord Shiva here as Parangirinathar. The temple is located and carved out of a rocky hill and is very different from other temples. The whole temple is built inside the rocky mountain and is very warm during day time. The other deities in this temple include Shiva, Vishnu, Ganesh and Durga.

As it was raining in the evening there were very few people at this temple. We could get a comfortable darshan here without waiting in any queue.  After this we drove back to the same restaurant (Gowri Shankar) for dinner and returned to our hotel in the night.

Day 10

The last day of our yatra was also very auspicious. Early in the morning around 6 a.m., we visited the world renowned Madurai Meenakshi temple. It was drizzling in the morning and we got drenched as we had to walk a couple of hundred meters from the drop off point to reach the temple. As arranged by us, we were met at the temple by a priest who is based out of Malaysia but who comes many times each year to this temple. He was kind enough to escort us to the sanctum where we got a darshan without having to wait. He also took us to the Sundareshwarar temple situated within the same premises for a darshan of Lord Shiva. We had excellent darshan at the two temples and then returned to our hotel after having breakfast at Gowri Shankar. Later in the afternoon, we had lunch at Bhagawathy Mohans Bhojanalay where we had lunch the previous day. Then we returned to our hotel for some rest.

In the evening, we checked out of our hotel and proceeded to the airport for our flight back home. The flights were delayed due to unseasonal rains in many parts of India. We were provided with light snacks by the airline due to the delay. After a delay of around 3 hours, we boarded our flight and reached Mumbai late in the night. After this, we returned home in an Uber ending our long blessed yatra during which we covered the six abodes of Lord Muruga, the nine abodes of the Navagraha temples plus many important temples of Tamil Nadu and could also complete out Tula Kaveri snanam.

Hope you enjoyed reading this blog and will be happy to provide any information / help to any of you who want to plan a yatra to any of the places covered by us.

Tamil Nadu Yatra - Part 6

Day 7

In the morning after breakfast at the restaurant in the hotel where we stayed, we left for Madurai which was our last halt in this yatra. Our new taxi for this leg of the tour was a Sedan – perfect for 3 passengers plus driver. Madurai is about 200 kms from Trichy. The roads were excellent, and the drive was smooth.

First, we went to Samayapuram Mariamman temple which was 18 kms away. It took us about 30 minutes to reach here through superb roads. The Devi here is a form of Adi Parashakti and is made up of sand and clay with extracts of medicinal herbs. She has a distinct red face and is considered very powerful. People come here to pray for various ailments to get cured and offer mavilakku (a lamp made of rice flour, ghee and jaggery) as well as raw salt & neem. As this is not a traditional stone idol, abhishekams are performed for a small stone statue placed in front of Her. This temple attracts large crowds especially on Sundays, Tuesdays & Fridays and has the largest hundi collections in Tamil Nadu after Pazhani. We took a special darshan queue and could finish our darshan of Devi within 30 minutes. Then we left for Madurai.

After reaching Madurai, we had lunch in a restaurant called Gowri Krishna. This a pure veg place and always very crowded due to their excellent quality of food. We had the regular South Indian platter served on a banana leaf. The food was decent and piping hot. After this, we checked into our hotel called Astoria which was a short 5-minute drive away from this restaurant. This is a decent hotel and worth exploring esp. if you have a vehicle with you. We had some much-needed rest in the afternoon as we were tired after a long drive plus heavy lunch. In the evening, surprisingly it started to pour cats and dogs and we decided to stay in the hotel and relax. The roads quickly got flooded due to poor drainage system plus clogging with plastic bags and garbage. Later in the night, it stopped raining, and we again went to Gowri Krishna, which was very close to our hotel, for dinner which comprised of some snacks followed by hot milk.

Day 8

Pazhamudircholai Temple

We woke up early and left our hotel by 7 a.m. Our first halt was at Pazhamudircholai temple, one of the 6 holy Murugan temple mentioned earlier. This was a 15 km drive from Madurai. As we reached early, there were very few people in the temple. By purchasing a special ticket, we were able to sit in front of the sanctum and witness the morning Abhishekam of the deities – Lord Murugan and His consorts Valli & Devasenai. It was a very satisfying darshan early in the morning and we considered ourselves lucky to be granted this. It is in this temple that the great Tamizh Saint & lady poetess, Avvaiyar, was blessed with the darshan of Lord under a tree. The story goes like this – after travelling a long distance under the hot summer Sun, she stopped under this tree to rest a while. Then a young lad approached her and asked her if he could get for her hot or cool fruits. She scoffed at the idea of hot fruits and told him that cool fruits would suffice. He then gave her some fruits picked from the ground which she blew upon to remove the mud particles stuck to it. So, the lad asked her “Why are you blowing? Are the fruits hot?” Immediately she realised that it was no ordinary boy, and it was the Lord Himself. He blessed Her with His original form before disappearing.

Pazhamudircholai

We spent some time at the temple which has a lot of monkeys in and around it as it is in a dense forest area atop a hill. After this, we drove down to Azhghar Koil which is the abode of Narayana. This is located on the foothills of the Pazhamudircholai Murugan temple. This is a lovely old temple, one of the 108 Divya Desam temples, spread over an area of nearly 2 acres. We had a lovely darshan of the Lord Narayana (known here as Kallazhagar and Sundarabahu Perumal) who is in a standing posture along with His consorts Sridevi & Bhudevi. There are also two large images of Lord Narasimha. The temple also has a unique idol of Chakratazhwar (Sudarshan Chakra) who has a Chakram with 16 hands each hold a weapon. There was one priest here who kindly explained the significance of this Deity and told us that those who worship here don’t need to have any fear of enemies (both external as well as internal). At this temple we also met a person who has quit his corporate life and settled down here to do service to the Lord. He was lamenting that the current generation is more focussed on building personal wealth and there are very few people who are dedicating their lives to protect, preserve and support these grand temples of yore.

Pazhamudicholai

Later we purchased the prasadam from the shop inside the temple and consumed it. It was a thick dosa fried in oil – tasty but very oily. Then we left for Tiruchendur. En route, we stopped at a small restaurant for some breakfast of idlis and tea. We reached Tiruchendur in the afternoon. I found an empty marriage hall to do my afternoon prayers. Then we had lunch at a restaurant. All meals & food items in this town were having onion or garlic. So, we could not get the half-jain (food without onion or garlic) that we were seeking. Then, we took some rest in a shaded area outside the temple waiting for the temple to re-open post afternoon break. As Tiruchendur is situated on the seashore, it was quite breezy, and we did not feel the heat much. Like us there were many yatris who were resting there and there were tea / coffee / snack vendors to cater to the needs of the yatris. We spent our afternoon watching & listening to the peacocks which are available in plenty here.

Tiruchendur Murugan temple is one of the 6 most important abodes of Lord Muruga. It is here that Lord Muruga rested and bathed after conquering and killing an Asura called Surapadma who resided in a fortress in the middle of the ocean. Details of this major battle are given in Skanda Puran written by Ved Vyasa. The most important festival celebrated here  (to mark the above victory) is called Skanda Sashti which occurs for 6 days immediately following Diwali festival. People observe fast during these six days and the seventh day is celebrated with much fervour as it commemorates the wedding of Lord Muruga with Devasena. 

Tiruchendur

We had made prior arrangements with a local priest whom we met at around 4.30 p.m. outside the main gate of the temple. He helped us go straight to the sanctum and get darshan of the deities. Because of his assistance, we could get VIP entrance to all the temples within the complex and come out within an hour. Then, we spent a few minutes at the beach adjoining the temple before proceeding back to Madurai by car. En route, we stopped at a roadside restaurant for some refreshments. I took the opportunity to perform my evening prayers outside the hotel. We reached Madurai late at night and had dinner at Gowri Krishna. After that we returned to our hotel to sleep and rest.

(to be continued...)

Tamil Nadu Yatra - Part 5

Day 6

Inside Srirangam Temple

On the morning of Day 6, we woke early to complete our morning ablutions and after this, we proceeded by Rickshaw to Amma Mandapam which is like a ghat constructed on the banks of River Kaveri. There were a lot of people already there – some who had finished their bath, some who were doing their rituals for their ancestors, some who like us were just about to go for the dip in Kaveri. We found that there was hardly much water in the higher riverbank as it is mainly dependent on rainfall. Also, the riverbank near the ghat was little dirty with clothes, bottles, plastic bags etc. strewn around. We had to walk a hundred meters or so in the riverbed to reach a place where Snanam could be done. The ladies had their bath first by taking several dips in the waist deep water. After this, we three gents did our Sankalpam before taking the holy dip in Kaveri River facing the down streaming river. This marked the most important event of this yatra. Tula Kaveri snanam (Having a holy dip in Kaveri in the month of Tula) is considered very auspicious and everyone should try to do this at least once in their lifetimes. After this, we returned to our rooms and had breakfast at the restaurant attached to our hotel. It was a modest spread (pure vegetarian fare) of traditional South Indian snacks like Idli, Vada, Pongal etc. Two members of our group then took a separate car and headed towards Kanchipuram enroute to Chennai.

The remaining three of us then proceeded towards:

Srirangam Temple

Srirangam temple: This is one of the most important Vaishnav temples of India with a special connection to Sri Rama & Ayodhya. The idol here is the same one that was worshipped by the family of Lord Sri Rama since ancient times. When Vibheeshana refused to return to Lanka after the coronation of Sri Rama at Ayodhya, he was persuaded to do so by Sri Rama who also gave him His traditionally worshipped deity to worship. While returning to Lanka in his Pushpaka Vimana, Vibheeshana stopped for his evening prayers at the bank of Kaveri. Once the idol was placed on the ground there, it refused to budge, and no amount of effort could move the idol from there. Reluctantly, surrendering to the will of God, Vibheeshana left it behind and proceeded to Lanka. This temple has been looted and plundered by Islamist invaders several times and the local priests took several pains to save the idol from destruction. It was thanks to their efforts that we can now have a darshan of the same deity that was worshipped by Sri Rama.

Srirangam temple

It was around 10 a.m. when we arrived here after a short drive from our hotel in a rickshaw. It was very warm when we arrived here, and the place was crowded too. We took a special darshan ticket (Rs. 100 per head) to save time. We could have darshan of the Sri Ranganatha Swamy who is in His Anantha Shyanam (lying down) pose within an hour or so from about 8-10 feet. The priest & other officials who are managing the crowd allow you to stand for extra time if you tip them. If the tip is large enough, one is also allowed inside the sanctum. After this we went around the huge temple complex to visit all the smaller temples within its premises. This included the Thayaar temple, Ramanujar temple and Chakrataalwar temple.

It was very hot in the afternoon and we were famished, hungry and thirsty. Based on someone's recommendation, we went to a nearby mess called the Sri Raghavendra Annapoorni Mess where we had a lovely sattvic lunch served on a banana leaf. While the food was just like home made and very tasty and wholesome, it was priced only about Rs. 100 or so per person. We then we returned to our rooms for some rest. Later in the afternoon, we visited the following temples:

Tiruvanaikavu temple

Tiruvanaikavu temple: This was located close to our hotel (about 750 meters) and so we walked down. This is one of the famous Panch bhoota Shiva temple which has the element of Jalam (the other temples being Ekambareshwar temple of Kanchi signifying the Bhoomi, the Nataraja temple of Chidambaram signifying Akasha, Sri Kalahastheeshwar temple of Kalahasthi signifying Vayu and Arunachaleshwar temple of Thiruvannamalai signifying Agni). This is another huge temple which was sparsely crowded as it was early afternoon. Usually, the Shiva lingam here is always covered with water from some underground source. However, this time it was dry as even Kaveri was relatively dry at this time of the year.

Akhilandeshwari Ambal Temple: Situated within the same temple complex is the lovely Akhilandeshwari Devi temple which has a huge idol of Ganeshji facing the main deity from outside the main door. Apparently, this Devi was in an angry mood and anyone who used to come to worship Her used to get affected by it. As recommended by Maha Periyavaa, Sri Chandrasekhar Saraswati of Kanchi, the idol of Ganeshji was installed in front of Her so that She could see Him as soon as the main door was opened. This pleased Her and She became benevolent toward all worshippers thereafter.

View from Uchhi Pillayar Temple

After this, we visited the Uchhi pillayar temple (also called the rock fort temple) of Lord Ganesh situated on the top of a rocky hill. This is in the main town of Trichy which we had to reach by crossing over a bridge over the river Kaveri. This is a 7^th century temple which can be reached by climbing 400 steps. On the way up, one can also visit the Taiumaanavar Shiva temple. This has a legend where Lord Shiva took the form of a mother to take care of the child of one of His bhaktas. The main Ganesh temple is small and has a distinctly beautiful Ganesh idol who is fully covered with sandal paste. From this temple, one can get a nice view of the town and also be able to see the Srirangam temple gopuram.  While we climbed down it rained for some time. We then had dinner in a restaurant (Vasant Bhavan) at the foot of the hill and then took a rickshaw back to our hotel for resting the night.

(to be continued....)